Guillotine Metal Cutters Explained: Types, Uses and Buying Tips
6 Oct 2025
If you’re cutting sheet metal regularly, a metal cutting guillotine can be a shop’s best friend. Also known as a guillotine shear, plate shear, squaring shear or guillotine cutter for metal, these machines slice through metal fast and clean. There’s less effort than you’d think too, as long as you pick the right one and know how to use it.
That’s where this guide comes in. It covers what a guillotine metal cutter is, the types you’ll see, how to use them safely, what to look for before you buy and some real-world tips from the workshop floor.
Article in brief
Guillotine metal cutters slice sheet metal using a fixed and moving blade. Ideal for aluminium, brass and mild steel.
Types include squaring shears (foot, hand or hydraulic), throatless shears for curves and bench shears for rough cuts.
CNC hydraulic guillotines offer speed and precision for industrial jobs, while manual models suit DIY setups.
Key settings to get right are the rake angle (controls cutting pressure) and shear angle (scissor vs chop motion).
PPE is essential. Think gloves, eye and ear protection, especially on powered machines.
After cutting, edges might need deburring with a file or sanding sheet.
Never reach into a jammed machine. Power down and call an engineer.
Throatless shears let you twist and turn the metal mid-cut for complex shapes.
Bench shears are best for straight cuts and heavy-duty repeat jobs.
1
What is a guillotine metal cutter?
A guillotine shear works with two blades (one fixed, one that comes down) to shear metal in a straight line. That’s your typical guillotine metal cutting machine in action.
Most well-set guillotines achieve tolerances of ±0.25mm to ±0.5mm on cut length, depending on material thickness and blade sharpness. The edge is typically burr-free, with minimal deformation or heat-affected zone — one of the key advantages over plasma or torch cutting.
Different names, same principle:
- Guillotine shear/guillotine cutter for metal
- Plate shear/squaring shear
- Throatless guillotine/throatless shear
- Swing beam/variable rake guillotine
When you see any of these, you're dealing with a variation of the metal guillotine cutter family.
Power comes in many forms, mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic and CNC-driven. For heavier jobs and thicker plates, you’ll want hydraulic or CNC mills. For light gauge or occasional DIY use, hand or foot-operated models may be enough.
Blade clearance — the gap between the upper and lower blades — is also critical. Too tight and you’ll get galling or blade damage; too wide and edges will burr or distort. Typical clearance is 5–10% of material thickness for mild steel.
2
Types of guillotine cutters for metal
Each type has its strengths and drawbacks. Here’s a breakdown:
Hydraulic/swing beam – Best for heavy sheet and production runs.
Pros: Huge cutting force and clean cuts on thick metal.
Cons: Big, expensive and requires regular maintenance.
Cons: Big, expensive and requires regular maintenance.
CNC/power guillotine – Ideal for high-volume, repeat cutting.
Pros: Programmable, fast and precise.
Cons: More complex and comes with greater cost.
Cons: More complex and comes with greater cost.
Mechanical/foot-operated – Suited to thin sheet work and small workshops.
Pros: Low cost and easy to use.
Cons: Limited thickness capacity and requires manual effort.
Cons: Limited thickness capacity and requires manual effort.
Throatless guillotine/shear – Great for curves, shapes and odd cuts.
Pros: You can feed metal freely as there’s no fixed throat.
Cons: Lower cutting force and may need multiple passes.
Cons: Lower cutting force and may need multiple passes.
Bench shear – Best for small workshop jobs and simple cuts.
Pros: Compact, stable and straightforward.
Cons: Not suited for curves or thick plate.
Each style is a metal guillotine cutter. The one you choose depends on what you're cutting and how much work you need it to do.
Cons: Not suited for curves or thick plate.
Each style is a metal guillotine cutter. The one you choose depends on what you're cutting and how much work you need it to do.
3
Uses of guillotine metal cutters
A good guillotine is a workhorse. You’ll see them used in:
- Sheet metal fabrication – Cutting to length before folding, bending or welding
- Panel production – HVAC parts, signage, cladding
- Workshop prep – Turning large sheets into manageable pieces
- Architectural metalwork – Heavy trims, panels, facades
- Prototype & small-batch runs – Faster than plasma or laser for straight cuts
You get the best efficiency when the job is straight, repetitive cuts. Anything curved? You might switch to a throatless shear or CNC plasma for that.
4
Safety & best practice
Before pressing the ‘go’ button on your guillotine metal shear:
- Always use PPE. Safety glasses, gloves and ear protection.
- Check guards, clamps and all safety devices. Never work around an unguarded blade.
- Set the rake or shear angle (if adjustable) to reduce cutting force and improve finish.
- Don’t overfeed. Let the machine do the work.
- If the cut metal doesn’t drop free, don't try to pull it out mid-cycle. Shut the machine and clear it safely.
- Keep blades sharp and aligned. A dull blade stresses the drive system and gives bad cuts.
- Always confirm the hold-down clamps are secure before cutting — loose sheet can spring up or jam. Never stand directly behind the sheet exit, as longer plates can kick back when the cut completes. If your guillotine has an adjustable rake, always reset it for thin stock to avoid bending the trailing edge.
- Schedule regular maintenance: check oil levels (for hydraulic units), inspect hoses and seals monthly, and verify blade alignment quarterly. Preventive servicing avoids costly downtime.
5
How to choose a guillotine metal cutter: 7 buying tips
When you’re in the market for a guillotine metal cutter, here’s what to demand:
1. Cutting capacity & length
Look at max thickness and width, such as 3mm × 1,300mm. Make sure your intended work stays comfortably under that.
2. Power & drive type
Hydraulic models give big punch. Mechanical ones are simpler. For frequent use, go hydraulic or CNC. For occasional jobbing, a foot shearing machine might suffice.
3. Rake & shear angle adjustability
Machines that let you tweak blade angle reduce required force and give cleaner cuts for different metals and thicknesses.
4. Back gauge & material support
Precise cuts need a reliable gauge. Also, big sheets need front and rear supports to avoid sagging or misalignment. For production accuracy, look for a powered or digital back gauge with fine adjustment (±0.1mm). Consistency here saves rework and ensures square panels for folding or welding.
5. Blade quality & maintenance
High-grade hardened or reversible blades last longer. Can you re-sharpen in-house or flip the blade? That saves money. Blades are usually made from high-carbon or high-chrome tool steel. Check whether they’re single- or four-edge reversible types. Regrind intervals depend on usage — as a rule, resharpen after every 10,000–20,000 cuts to maintain a clean shearing edge.
6. Safety features & compliance
Don’t skimp on light curtains, guards and emergency stops. Also check electrical safety and CE standards.
7. Service, parts and support
You want local support and spare blades. A machine’s only as useful as its maintainability.
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What to do after cutting: deburring and finishing
A guillotine gives you a clean, straight edge. If you notice a slanted edge or “bowed” cut, it can indicate uneven blade wear or incorrect rake adjustment. Recheck alignment before continuing — consistent blade geometry ensures repeatable, square cuts across the full length.
Even with a straight cut, it’s not always ready to go. Depending on your metal and blade sharpness, the cut edge might be a bit rough or leave burrs.
Even with a straight cut, it’s not always ready to go. Depending on your metal and blade sharpness, the cut edge might be a bit rough or leave burrs.
Here’s what to do:
- Deburring – Use a mill file, deburring tool or flap disc to take off sharp edges. Find out more in our guide to cutting sheet metal.
- Finishing – If surface finish matters, hit the cut with aluminium oxide paper, Scotch-Brite or even a linisher for a smoother look.
- Protecting the cut edge – On mild steel, a quick coat of red oxide primer or zinc spray helps prevent rust.
For production jobs, inline deburring units can be bolted onto guillotines. But for most users, a quick pass with a file does the trick.
7
Guillotine cutters vs other cutting methods
Let’s put guillotines side by side with other ways to cut metal:
Guillotine – Best for straight, clean cuts on sheet metal.
Pros: Fast, repeatable and produces no heat-affected zone.
Cons: Can’t cut curves and takes up space.
Cons: Can’t cut curves and takes up space.
Plasma cutter – Ideal for complex shapes and thick plate.
Pros: Flexible and works on most metals.
Cons: Can cause heat distortion and leaves rougher edges.
Cons: Can cause heat distortion and leaves rougher edges.
Angle grinder – Great for quick, rough cuts.
Pros: Cheap and portable.
Cons: Messy, noisy and produces sparks.
Cons: Messy, noisy and produces sparks.
Bandsaw – Perfect for tubes, sections and precise cuts.
Pros: Clean, straight or angled cuts.
Cons: Slower than a guillotine.
Cons: Slower than a guillotine.
Laser cutter – Best for precision cutting and intricate parts.
Pros: Delivers high detail and an excellent finish.
Cons: Expensive and slower on thick plate.
So, where does a metal cutting guillotine shine? When you need fast, straight, repeatable cuts in sheet metal. And you need them now.
Cons: Expensive and slower on thick plate.
So, where does a metal cutting guillotine shine? When you need fast, straight, repeatable cuts in sheet metal. And you need them now.
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Guillotine cutters for metal: Summing things up
If you’re doing a lot of sheet metal work (especially straight cuts) a guillotine metal shear is worth its weight in steel. It’s quicker than grinders, cleaner than plasma and way easier to control for batch jobs.
Whether it’s a throatless guillotine for curves or a CNC monster that eats through 3mm steel all day, there’s a metal guillotine cutter for every workshop.
Just make sure you’re cutting the right material with the right blade. And if you’re ever unsure? Call your supplier or check your manual before you put blade to metal.
Get your metal cut to size. No guillotine needed
Not got space for a guillotine in your workshop? No problem. At The Metal Store, we’ll cut your metal to the exact size you need. And it’s free.
Order your mild steel, aluminium, brass or stainless steel, pick your dimensions then let us do the slicing. You get a clean edge, no faff and fast delivery across the UK.
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